Ludhiana Heritage sites a picture of utter neglect

Often called the ‘Manchester of India’, few people – both residents and outsiders – know that the city has a large number of significant historical structures that can be major tourist attractions but instead languish in a state of neglect.

One such noteworthy example is Christ Church, which dates back to the 1830s. Adjacent to the Fountain Chowk, it is probably the oldest church in Punjab. However, it has been entangled in several legal disputes relating to attempts to sell off the property, which are still pending in court. The scruffy look of the church compound is a testimony to how the structure has fallen on bad days.

Mughal Serai

The foundation stone of the church, affiliated to the Church of England, was laid by the fifth Bishop of Calcutta, Daniel Wilson, was it consecrated in 1840. In its early days, elite officers of the British army and civil service worshipped here.

Though this historic church is poorly maintained due to lack of funds and is surrounded by unauthorized structures, its intricately vaulted ceiling still holds charm.

‘‘The SSP’s home was once the priest’s residence. At one time the church had two parks, one of which has since been auctioned and converted into a market. There is no longer a proper entrance to the church that remains in a decrepit state”, said BM Fredrick, secretary of the United Church of Northern India, Punjab synod.

Another neglected historical site is the Lodhi Fort, built about 500 years ago by Yusuf Khan on the banks of the Sutlej that once flowed near the city. The mud fort, steeped in a rich archaeological heritage, has now slipped into oblivion. Civic officials had once proposed to develop a hanging garden over 3.5 acres of land around the fort, but the plan never materialized. Instead, it now stands surrounded by wild grass.

The fort, from which the city derived its name, is in a shambles these days. Most of its inner part and barracks have crumbled. A mysterious tunnel from inside the fort is said to go under the Sutlej and open at the Phillaur Fort. Legend has it that the tunnel was dug up either to enable the fort inhabitants to flee during an emergency or to surprise the enemy by attacking them from behind on the Sutlej side.

‘‘A few years ago some Muslim devotees used to come here on Thursdays to worship, but today no longer do so. Instead one can often see drug addicts lying in stupor inside the fort’s premises, ’’ said Bashir Malik, who lives nearby and has seen the heydays of this fort.

A historical monument that has suffered neglect over the years is the city’s best-known landmark – the Clock Tower, popularly known as Ghanta Ghar – which is over a century old. The Victoria Memorial Clock Tower, as it was known during the British Raj, was inaugurated by Charles Montgomery along with Deewan Tek Chand, at that time the lieutenant governor and Ludhiana deputy commissioner, respectively. The structure, which has gradually emerged as the city’s emblem, was erected as a memorial to the silver jubilee year of Queen Victoria’s reign.

The original clock, installed when the tower was built by the British, had to be wound manually and was later replaced with an electronic clock a few years ago after the earlier one became worn out. ‘‘It’s a monument that city residents can identify with. However, one can now see ‘peepal’ trees growing around the structure but the authorities appear not to be bothered at all. We need to treasure this historical tower, ’’ said SS Chana, a city resident.

Another neglected historical site in the city is Sunet Village where archaeologists have discovered traces of six cultures dating back 3,800 years to 1800-1400 BC. The place is also popularly known as Ucha Pind and Kacha Pind, probably on account of the existence of an old mound there

The Archaeological Survey of India has declared this large chunk of land in Sunet a protected site. It first came into the limelight in the early 1980s when a large number of seals and thousands of coin moulds of the Yaudheya, an ancient tribal confederation who lived in the area between the Indus and Ganges rivers, as well as coins belonging to the Hermaeus, Gondopharnes, Chandragupta and Samudragupta eras were found here. Vestiges of the Harappan civilization were also discovered in the village by archaeologists.

It is only the board of the department which tells the historical importance of the Sunet Village comprising of ancient mounds, some of which were excavated. A wall recently built by the archeological department to preserve the heritage site.

‘‘Inside the compound one can find heaps of garbage and youngsters can be seen playing cricket on Sundays in one corner. This is how we treat our historical treasures, ’’ said Col JS Brar, a city resident.

Mughal Sarai, built in Doraha during the 17th century, is another example of a historical site that could have been a major attraction for foreign tourists but is now a picture of utter neglect.

Built by the Mughal emperor Sher Shah Suri and located south of the present day Ludhiana-Khanna road, it was the most sought-after place for weary travellers. Today, thanks to the Bollywood movie ‘Rang De Basanti’ starring Aamir Khan, which once again brought this historical ‘sarai’ into limelight. All those who have seen the movie recognised the dilapidated building.

It is a beautiful ‘sarai’ spread over approximately 168 square metres. There are imposing gateways in the centre on the northern and southern sides. The northern gate has remains of floral designs while the southern gate has floral and formal paintings. A ‘kutcha’ (makeshift) pathway connects both the gateways.

The big compound is now being maintained as a lawn by the archaeology department and the ‘sarai’ is protected under the Punjab Ancient and Historical Movements Archaeological Sites & Remains Act, 1964.

‘‘Sadly, this ancient wonder is in ruins today and appears to be waiting for nature’s fury to crumble. Time has already effaced its magnificence. The paste coming out of the walls, the vanishing wall paintings, the faded carvings on the ceilings are a proof of the neglected glory of ancient India,’’ says Preetraj Kang from Chandigarh who frequently visits this place on weekends to spend some quality time with his friends.

Other structures that have been neglected – the Kos Minars or ‘mile pillars’, were erected by the Mughal rulers on the main highways across the empire to delineate the route and mark the distance. They played a significant role in the system of governance during the Mughal period. But over the years these significant road monuments have gone into a state of disrepair and are almost lost in obscurity.

The Kos Minars were built during the reign of Jahangir on road to Lahore from Delhi. Though, these milestones were built during Jahangir’s rule, the route existed even during the Ashokan period. While in the present age, milestones are put after every kilometre, the ‘minars’ were built after every 4.17 kilometres. These ‘minars’ are found when one travels from Ludhiana to Phillaur to Noormahal to Nakodar.

The Kos Minars can be seen around the city in Ghungrali Rajputan, Lashkri Khan, Dhandari Kalan, Sherpur and Sanhewal. These ‘minars’, which should have been preserved , have all but disappeared from the scene.

Manav Mander
Tribune News Service

Photos: Himanshu Mahajan, Inderjeet Verma