The grandeur of the mirrorworked Sheesh Mahal beckons with rich history, stately halls echo with a storied past, charming latticework tells the fabulous legends of royalty and intriguing turrets recapture the splendour of a time when luxury and grace were the abiding standards.
Drift back to a glamourous era, when the idyllic town of Faridkot—situated near a pre-Harrapan mound south-west of Ludhiana—was a bustling destination for the members of one of Punjab’s best-known royal families.
Living large and always looking one’s best was the unwritten royal mandate. That’s what Rajkumari Devinder Kaur Sahiba, the present scion, recalls of the splurging patterns of her ancestors with whom she had had the good fortune of spending some time.
“Mind you, my grandmother, Maharani Mahinder Kaur Sahiba—widowed at a very young age—lived a life of simplicity,” she says. There was no room for going overboard on shopping, but there was always an élan to her minimalism. Her salwar-kameez and dupatta were specially embroidered by the nuns of a convent in South India.
The Maharani wore leather shoes made by the famous Chinese shoemaker, Ta Tung, of Simla. She used only Irish linen, which was bought in London.
Rajkumari Devinder Kaur Sahiba (right) and her daughter Kumari Harminder Kaur Sahiba
She wore heavy jewellery on special occasions, as per custom, but was extremely fond of wearing wristwatches, buttons and rings on regular days.
t of these were specially made by Hamilton and Co—at either its Delhi or Calcutta branch. Her navrattan (nine-gemmed) buttons would match with her navrattan wristwatch band.
Simplicity was hardly the order of the day when her first-born, H.H. colonel Maharaja Harinder Singh took over the responsibility and the title at 18. He and his wife, Maharani Narinder Kaur Sahiba, were fond of shopping while on vacation in England.
They would travel by the P&O shipping line, covering Bombay to London in 15 days, and stay at the Savoy, London—sometimes for as long as four months. This stay would invariably be followed by a trip to Scotland and rest of Europe.
“The favourite shopping spot of the royalty in London was Harrods, of course,” says Rajkumari Devinder. And they shopped royally. “The royal couple were received by the chief manager and his assistants, escorted to his office and offered sherry.”
Later, they would go for their shopping spree in the store, escorted by assistants. Rajkumari Devinder recalls an unique self-indulgence that Harinder Singh had: “He was in the habit of buying a dozen of everything.”
Maharaja Harinder Singh Bahadur (left) and Kunwar Manjit Singh Bahadur
In the ’50s, when he saw a dishwasher at Harrods, he ordered a dozen of those. But back home, it created havoc. Even before he could get unpacked, he was informed by the lassikhana (area from where the prepared food would be served) incharge, Lt. Lal Singh, that the masalchis (dishwashing boys) had revolted to the introduction of dishwashers and gone on a strike. To save the situation, the prince had to order prompt removal of the yet-unpacked machines, to be kept somewhere in obscurity.
Narinder Kaur Sahiba was known at Harrods for not taking back any change. “Her shopping sprees would invariably include a large number of gifts for her nieces and nephews back home,” says Rajkumari Devinder. “Her personal shopping would include perfumes, for which she had a penchant.”
Harinder Singh was also an avid collector of cars. His collection included the Rolls Royce, Bentleys, Jaguars, Alvis, Land Rovers and jeeps. His abiding passion, however, was collecting motorcycles.
He shopped for his cars and motorcycles in London. “Not just that, he also had a passion for flying and bought nine aircrafts,” recalls the Rajkumari.
If His Highness got his suits made at Savile Row in London (“He had a special weakness for the khakhi colour and ordered a large number of suits in this colour”), his younger brother, Kunwar Manjit Inder Singh Bahadur, was always elegantly dressed in tweeds and had a love for the colour blue. He was fond of cufflinks as a part of his daily jewels and had an array of Swiss watches, Rolex being his favourite.
Maharani Mahinder Kaur Sahiba
He was fond of American cars and had a host of Chevrolets and Pontiacs. “His love for animals and birds was legendary,” says the Rajkumari. He was particularly fond of horses and dogs.
In fact, the Darzi Khana of Faridkot always had to cope up with a large order of dog coats before the winter would set in. He also spent a lot on oil paintings of birds and animals.
His wife, Kunwarani Jagdish Kaur, a former student of Queen Mary School, Lahore, was an artist and a swimming, hockey and tennis champion. “She was fond of clothes and would buy them from Leela Ram and Sons,” recalls Rajkumari Devinder. “She liked to buy perfumes and her favourite was Chanel No. 5.”
A large amount of money was spent on jewellery too. The State jewellery was kept in the Tosh-IKhana (treasury) and was worn by the Maharaja on State occasions.
The princess reminiscences, “The jewellery was listed by the Tosh-IKhana incharge each time brought out for use and again before putting it back.”
Kunwarani Jagdish Kaur
Jewellery worn for such times would include necklaces in uncut and semi-cut diamonds and huge emeralds set in kundan style, kalgis, bangles, armlets, belts and swords. “Faridkot was known for its collection of eye-catching emeralds,” says the Rajkumari with a glint of pride in her eyes.
Women of the family possessed their personal jewellery as well, needless to say, the finest available. “The diamond necklace worn by Kunwarani Jagdish Kaur was one of the two identical sets made by Hamilton and Co. The other was purchased by the Patiala family.”
How about the current princess? “I love to buy French perfumes and French chiffon,” she says—possibly a taste developed during her stint with the United Nations. She has panache for good food and wine (“I am fond of smoked salmon”).
Music is her mantra and it’s the soldierly bagpipe of Scotland (“Bagpipers were a part of my uncles’ royal band”) that she likes the best: “I buy every possible musical production of this genre from all over the world.”
Her daughter and the youngest member of the present generation, Kumari Harminder Kaur Sahiba, however, does not share the same interest in spending money as her ancestors.
Maharani Narinder Kaur Sahiba
“I like to save money, although I spend it on watching films, buying trinkets by the dozen and on casual, branded clothes,” says the young lady. She loves to spend large sums on saris for her mother and, being an ardent animal and bird lover, she does spend a sizeable sum to keep up with her passion. “I want to travel all across the country and learn the customs and traditions of our people everywhere,” she says.
“That’s what I would like to save my money for,” she smiles. Monarchies have always set style standards—not only for citizens but also for many other fashion enthusiasts.
But after 60 years of Indian Independence, and in a world where debates about the existence of monarchies are doing the rounds—even in countries where they continue to thrive— style and splendour are no longer royal privileges alone. All over the world, monarchs are finding comfort in the ateliers of Paris just as much as the local highstreet fashion.
No wonder, the current generation of Faridkot royals are busy spawning new royal traditions of living large, albeit in a more republican manner.
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